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A Guide to the 9th Arrondissement of Paris

a guide to the 9th arrondissement in Paris

A Guide to the 9th Arrondissement of Paris

Paris is constructed based on 20 arrondissements, numbered from 1 to 20, and the numbers grow as you get further out from the center of the city. The Seine divides the city, and there is a Left and Right Bank to Paris. The 9th arrondissement is located on the Right Bank and is not your typical postcard Paris filled with Parisian monuments and tourist-filled cafés.  For more of a local experience, this is the perfect place to stay or spend an afternoon exploring. I hope this guide to the 9th arrondissement inspires you to explore this part of Paris.

If you visit Paris for the first time, the 9th arrondissement may not be on your list, but it should be on your next trip. It is one of the best neighborhoods in Paris, full of food, entertainment, cultural museums, and history.

How to Get to the 9th Arrondissement in Paris

I love exploring Paris on foot and find it the best way to see the city of light. If walking isn’t for you, several metro stations are nearby. Cadet, Notre Dame de Lorette, and Opéra will put you in an excellent position to explore the ninth arrondissement of Paris. 

Paris Metro grands boulevards

I wrote this post after hearing from many readers who had booked one of my favorite hotels, Adèle and Jules. I have been sending individual Google maps and recommendations for this neighborhood, and I felt it was time for a blog post. There are other great hotels in the 9th district that I will cover in this post as well, where friends have recently stayed and loved.

Where to Stay in the 9th Arrondissement

Adèle and Jules is a four-star boutique hotel located in the 9th arrondissement. It is made up of two identical small buildings, Adèle and Jules. I stayed here in 2018 on a winter evening and shot a photograph that is one of my most popular images in The Print Shop. It was a quick one-night stay to explore the hotel and possibly write about it on the blog. Now, it is one of the most popular hotels among EDP readers.

adele and jules paris boutique hotel in the 9th arrondissement

The hotel is moderately priced compared to other Paris hotels and offers a great location, friendly staff, and clean rooms. Some rooms have a quiet courtyard view that looks over the Parisian rooftops, and some have Juliette balconies with a view of the tiny side street the hotel sits on. I have stayed at the hotel multiple times since 2018 and always had a great stay. For our Atlas Adventures Paris trips, the hotel accommodated a group of 25 girls. They also offer connecting family rooms for those traveling with kids.

hotel adele and jules Paris boutique hotel

Grand Boulevards Hotel is a four-star hotel in the heart of the 9th arrondissement, just around the corner from Adèle and Jules. On separate occasions, I had two friends stay here over the summer, and they wrote great reviews asking me to add this to my list of hotel recommendations. There is a great rooftop bar where you can enjoy a view of Paris and a cocktail.

Budget Friendly Hotel in the 9th arrondissement

Maison Mère is a four-star budget hotel in the 9th arrondissement. I recently stayed here over the summer, and my fiancé and I were lucky enough to have a balcony with a rooftop view. The hotel is near Parisian cafés, bakeries, and great coffee shops. If you want a budget-friendly option, this hotel has a co-working space.

maison mere paris 9th arrondissement budget hotel

Where the 9th Arrondissement is Located in Paris

One of the reasons I love the 9th arrondissement is that while it may not be a touristy neighborhood compared to other Paris arrondissements, it is well located to a lot of the city. The 18th arrondissement is Montmartre, a great place to spend an afternoon. You can see my full Montmartre guide here.

South Pigalle, or SoPi, is another name for the 9th arrondissement of Paris. When I first moved to Paris in 2013, the area wasn’t as hot and trendy as it is now. Finding a good coffee shop or brasserie that wasn’t a tourist trap was hard. That has all changed in the last ten years, making this area a must-visit Paris filled with great food and coffee.

Main Streets in the 9th Arrondissement

everyday parisian fall trench Sézane

The 9th arrondissement has a few main streets. Grands Boulevards is one of the largest streets and the central metro station when traveling around Paris.

Rue des Martyrs is one of my favorite streets to walk down. It is full of excellent bakeries, cafés, and coffee shops. My favorite places include Boulangerie Mamiche (get the brioche) and Sébastian Gaudard, which has the best lemon tart. Pain Pain is also a popular spot. I always get overwhelmed by the desserts there and can never decide.

Sebastien Gaudard Patisserie Paris

You can walk from Adéle and Jules to Montmartre in less than 15 minutes. You will be very close to Moulin Rouge and Sacre Coeur.

opera garnier paris france

Boulevard Haussmann is the main street that will take you to Palais Garnier, the opera house in Paris. You will also be close to two of the main upscale department stores in the city. Galeries Lafayette and Printemps are located in the heart of Paris. These shops are also known as the grand magasins.

Rue du Faubourg Montmartre is also the main street leading to the center of Paris, which has several restaurants and shops in the 9th arrondissement. It is a good street to bookmark and use as a base when exploring.

What to do in the 9th Arrondissement

Explore the Passage des Panoramas all over the 9th arrondissement. You can start at Rue des Martyrs and walk through covered passages down to Galleries Vivienne, which will end in Palais Royal. It is one of my favorite walks in Paris and one of the best places to spend a rainy day. As you stroll, explore Passage Jouffroy and Passage Verdeau and the hidden gems and shops that line the arcades. Book a lunch or dinner at Racines, a hidden gem in the Passage des Panoramas. 

covered passages paris france
Paris passages 9th arrondissement

Musée de la Vie Romantique, which is the museum of romantic life. Even if you aren’t into visiting the museum, I highly recommend the rose garden. You can also stop here for something from Rose Bakery.

What to do in the 9th Arrondissement of Paris

Visit the Opéra Garnier. You can book tickets in advance for a tour or do a self-guided tour. The central location is just off the Opéra metro line and you cannot miss it. Don’t miss the grand staircase of this historical landmark. 

Paris Opera

Musée de la Vie Romantique, which is the museum of romantic life. Even if you aren’t into visiting the museum, I highly recommend the rose garden. You can also stop here for something from Rose Bakery.

One of the best views in Paris is at the top of the Galleries Lafayette Department store.

view from galleries lafayette rooftop view of Paris

Where to Shop in the 9th Arrondissement

Sézane L’Appartement, the main Sézane store in Paris, is just a quick walk from Adèle and Jules. They are closed on Sundays and Mondays, so consider that when planning your visit. Sézane now has multiple locations in Paris, but this is the largest one in the city. The lines on Fridays and Saturdays are long, so be prepared or try to come just as the store opens. Bring a copy of your passport to collect the VAT tax if you spend over 100 euros.

sezane store everyday parisian 9th arrondissement Paris

It is cheaper to buy Sézane in person, especially with the euro conversion. If you have your eye on something from Sézane that is a big ticket item, such as a bag or coat, I would wait to purchase it in France. You can see a guide to the Sézane bags to help you understand what you are looking for when you are in Paris. 

A la Mère de Famille is the oldest chocolate shop in Paris, and its first and best location is in the 9th arrondissement. You will see other smaller shops around Paris, but this is the original and worth exploring. Pick up souvenirs for home or indulge in chocolate treats for yourself. The iconic brown and orange packaging and prepackaged chocolates offer great gifts. 

la mere de famille paris chocolate shop a guide to the 9th arrondissement

Boulevard Haussmann has two leading stores that are iconic in Paris for shopping: Printemps department store and Galleries Lafayette. Both offer rooftop views of Paris and are a must in the 9th arrondissement. You can choose which to visit, as both aren’t necessary. I have always gravitated towards Galleries Lafayette for the stained glass ceiling and Christmas windows. 

Where to Eat Pastries in the 9th Arrondissement in Paris

Union Boulangerie is a must! Get the canelle roll (cinnamon) you will thank me. Make sure to check the hours as they are closed on Sundays.

union boulangerie a guide to the 9th arrondissement

Babka Zana is incredible! Again, this is another cinnamon favorite when it comes to Babka flavors. Their chocolate is their best seller, and I highly recommend getting two. They keep well, so you can nibble on them over a few days. If anyone stops here before flying back to Chicago, I will love you forever if you bring me back a cinnamon babka roll.

Babka Zana Paris

Coffee Shops in the 9th Arrondissement

KB cafe paris everyday parisian

There are some great coffee spots in the 9th arrondissement. The most popular one is KB Café, which has a small indoor seating area and a larger patio. Enjoy coffee and pastries on the shaded terrace. 

Cafe Pigalle A guide to the 9th arrondissement Paris

Café Pigalle is an excellent spot for coffee. The space is small; enjoy the bench outside or takeaway as you stroll the neighborhood. 

Where to Eat in the 9th Arrondissement

Bonhomme, I had the most incredible meal at Bonhomme in the 9th arrondissement. There is a small terrace with a few tables outside. I visited in October and wanted to soak up the nice weather on the terrace. The inside space is beautiful as well. I can’t stop dreaming about the innovative flavors in my dishes, including popcorn soup. The lunch special was affordable, and the ingredients were fresh.

Paris 9th arondissement restaurant
bonhomme Paris 9th arrondissement restaurant

Bouillon Chartier is just a quick walk from the grand boulevard. This restaurant is the perfect spot for a budget-friendly French meal in a lively atmosphere. The restaurant is easy to spot from the street because there is typically a line. They move you through fairly quickly.

bouillon chartier paris

If you want to try a new French dish, this is the place to do it. The prices are reasonable and you won’t break the bank if you don’t like a dish or order multiple sharing plates for the table.

Le Bon Georges. I highly recommend making reservations here, as it is usually full. They have an outdoor terrace for guests when the weather is nice. I have eaten here twice and sat inside both times. My most recent visit was during a snowy evening in January. The wine list is one of the things that draws people in and is quite intense. Le Bon Georges has an amazing staff that will guide you through the menu and wine choices during your visit.

le bon george Paris 9th arrondissement
9th arrondissement where to eat in Paris

Pink Mamma and Pizzeria Popolare are great Italian and part of the Big Mamma group in Paris. They didn’t take reservations in the past, but it seems that may have changed recently. The lines outside are long but it is worth it. Try the truffle pasta and the pizza. You will thank me! Go with a friend so you can order one item and split it to get the best of both worlds.

Where to Eat in the 9th Arrondissement Paris

Bistro Rougement This was a recommendation from the hotel to stop here for lunch. The space is quaint and very Parisian. There is a small terrace for outdoor dining or tables inside. The chalkboard menu is full with seasonal specials at reasonable prices. They also have a great wine menu that they can make suggestive pairings. I ate there for both lunch and dinner, and they were fantastic.

bistro rougement 9th arrondissement Paris

Richer is just a quick walk from the hotel on rue Richer. It has a limited menu, and the portions are smaller than those of other brasseries and cafés. The food is French, and the menu changes seasonally. They have a great wine menu. The restaurant stays open until midnight, which is a great option if you need a late-night meal.

The Hoxton Hotel is a trendy spot located in the 9th arrondissement. You can stay here or enjoy the bar area for small bites and people-watching.

Brasserie Dubillot is a traditional French restaurant in the 9th arrondissement, not far from Adèle and Jules. In the spring, we had our welcome dinner there for Atlas Adventures.

Inexpensive Places to Eat in the 9th Arrondissement

Miznon Paris is a favorite of mine, and there is one that is so close to Adèle and Jules. I love their chicken pita sandwich. It’s a quick bite you can eat there or take away.

Coffee and Brunch in the 9th Arrondissement

Bon Bouquet Café I have only been here for coffee which was delicious but the brunch looks incredible and there are lines out the door even on the weekdays. There has never been a moment I have seen this place not busy.

Café Pigalle opened up last fall, and I was lucky enough to stumble upon it while walking with the Atlas Adventures group. It is a great addition to the neighborhood.

You can save the map below and use it as a guide when exploring the 9th arrondissement of Paris. I color-coded everything to make it easy to navigate. If you discover something new that didn’t make the list, please feel free to share it below! xo

For more tips on Paris, you can purchase The Paris Guide here!

*This post includes affiliate links. I make a small commission off of items purchased from my links. Merci

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  1. I did the Northern Marais Paris by Mouth tour in May of this year. I plan to do others when I return. Our guide was very knowledgeable and we ate lots of delicious charcuterie, cheeses, croissants, and handmade candies, and pastries, and drank several wines. Everone who takes one of their tours gets a one year subscription to their Paris restaurant review blog.

    • I love this feedback! Thank you so much. Also, the Paris restaurant review is such a great bonus.

  2. A recommendation for food tours: Paris by Mouth tours are the best I’ve found, and I’ve tried many. You will not be disappointed!

  3. I love the 9th arrondissement. A friend invited me to go with her a few years ago. I’ve been back a few times since. I take a list of places that Elaine Scolione described in her book The Only Street in Paris: The Rue des Martyrs. It is a real find!!

    • Yes! I love Rue des Martyrs. My apartment wasn’t too far from here and I always loved to stroll down this street. It is so lively and tons of great spots to eat and drink along the way.

  4. My wife and I are heading to Paris at the end of September for two weeks, our first visit to this romantic city. We purchased your fabulous Paris Guide several months ago and booked the Adele & Jules hotel, so thank you so much for your special 9th Arrondissment guide….just what we needed! We are foodies, and can’t help but wonder….are the food tours worth doing? Or are we better off just wandering through “food” neighborhoods such as Montmartre and Marais? What do you think? Thanks, John

    • Hi John,

      Thank you! You will have some incredible food while you are in the 9th. Make sure to book Bistro Rougement for lunch or dinner and visit Union Boulangerie and Mamiche. I can’t wait to hear what you think. What food tour are you considering? I have had good and bad ones. If this is your first trip to Paris, you might want to try La Cuisine for a food tour. They are fabulous and you will learn a lot too!

      Rebecca

  5. Thank you so much for this it is so inspiring. I can’t wait to add all your recommendations to my do-do list for my next trip to Paris.

  6. Thanks for posting. I’m headed to Paris soon and chose a hotel you recommended in the 9th. Its my first time staying in this area (usually Marais). I also just ordered your Paris Guide.

    • Thank you! May I ask what you booked? I hope you enjoy this gem of a neighborhood. It is packed with great food and you will feel more like a local. The Marais is wonderful too, just different. xo

  7. Hi Rebecca,
    Thank you for all your great suggestions. I am going in early May. I have been many times before but Paris has changed a lot and I am set on discovering new neighborhoods and restaurants. Staying in the Marais. Want to discover the 9th, Bastille, and Montmartre more. I am looking for restaurants for dinner that offer lighter meals – less meat, more veggie and fish entrees. Any ideas? Thanks! Georgia

  8. Hello! Thank for this beautiful post! My girls and I will be in Paris for 3 nights in June of 2024. I had my eye on staying in the 5th. It is their first trip, and my 3rd to Paris. I wonder if we might prefer this slightly less crazy area as a base from which to explore. I love the idea of drinking coffee and having pastry on a corner, and not be surrounded by fellow tourists, but more of a mixture of residents to the area…but still, it is easy for us to see and do all that a first time tourist “must” do. Do you think this area might be a good fit for us?

  9. The secret is out! The 9th is my favourite since it’s a little less touristy away from the Grands magasins and Rue des Martyrs is just spectacular. I lived here for some time and it’s just such a great spot 🙂

  10. I’m heading to Paris at the end of October and was debating on which hotel to book in the 9th. I decided on the Maison Mere based on your review (and went for the balcony as well!) I’m so excited. I also love Bouillon and can’t wait to return. This was a PERFECT post!!

    • I hope you have the best time! Maison Mère will treat you well. Skip the breakfast and head to one of the local boulangeries list on the map. Keep me posted on how your trip is and what you discover.

      xo

  11. I am leaving in 14 days, 8 hours and my friend and I will be staying in the 9th. This post was so timely! We have researched a couple of the places you mentioned, so now I am writing down the rest. Thank you for all the great information 🙂