The Marais will always be very special to me. I have had three apartments here over the years and so many fond memories. I always find my way back to the Marais for a stroll or to meet friends on a terrace for a glass of wine. Sundays are the best in my opinion. The neighborhood is alive with a wonderful energy. I wake up early, before the crowds start and shoot and explore a bit and take the city in. I have my favorite streets, but there are always corners I haven’t discovered. That is the best part of Paris to me. I continue to come back over and over and there is always something new to surprise me.
If you are an early bird like me, there is coffee at Fragments. They start serving at 7 am. (make sure to have a card on you as they don’t take cash). You can dine in but space is limited. I like to take my coffee to go and stroll. Place des Vosges is nearby and one of my favorite parks in Paris.
If it was a Sunday, I would walk towards the Bastille Market. This is a lively market on both Thursday and Sundays. Thursdays are not as crowded but there are less vendors. For the full experience, a visit on a Sunday is a must. I have a flower vendor that I have become friends with over the years. He jumps up and smiles every time he sees me. He runs around the stall to give me kisses on both cheeks. I will take photographs of his flowers but I usually buy at least one bunch. If I don’t buy anything, I still stick a few euros in his hand for a coffee. Not every vendor is friendly and allows me to photograph.
The top image is from Spring/Summer and the bottom one is from September. You can tell by the flowers and the colors they are from different seasons.
After picking up a few things at the market, I like to walk back towards Boulevard Beaumarchais to my favorite boulangerie. I grab a baguette and will head back to my apartment. There is nothing better than salted butter on a warm baguette.
After unloading my purchases back at my apartment, I head out to a café. There are great ones right off of Rue de Bretagne which was very close to where I lived.
Also along Rue de Bretagne is a great cheese shop just outside Marché des Enfants Rouge. The market is lively on Sundays and a great place for lunch. Inside you will find Moroccan food and a sandwich stand with a very long line. The man dances while he makes sandwiches and is legendary. I have never stopped for a sandwich here but I have only heard great things.
The cheese shop is so friendly and they will happily let you practice your French.
Other spots for lunch in the Marais include Big Love which doesn’t take reservations. I would recommend lining up a few minutes before opening to secure a spot. They have gluten free pizza along with a truffle pasta that is out of this world good.
Miznon is one of my favorite spots in Paris for lunch or dinner on a Sunday. Try the chicken sandwich which is in a fresh pita and tahini. The sandwiches are under 10 euros. The line is long but completely worth the wait. They are open until late on Sundays but I can’t guarantee they will have a full menu as they sell out by the end of the day. They are famous for their roasted cauliflower.
Boot Café is small but so great for a coffee. It is located on a small street and it is easy to miss. Just look for the boot hanging above or the bright colors outside. You can take your drink for takeaway here and walk around in the neighborhood. They have excellent iced coffee if you are visiting in the warmer months.
I love Merci on Boulevard Beaumarchais for some fun shopping. You will know the spot by the red fiat in the courtyard. Each month, the store has a theme and the bottom entry including the car is included in the theme. They have a great bookstore connected which is a perfect spot for tea or meeting a friend. They have a restaurant connected as well which is a good place for lunch.
Don’t miss Place des Vosges for a stroll around the arcades, tea at Damman Fréres or macarons at Carette.
In the evening, I like to gather with friends at Au Petit Fer à Cheval. I have been coming here for years and I have become friends with Didier who works there. He is always so patient to work with me on my French. The bar had a kitchen fire in 2019 and it was closed. They expected to reopen in April of 2020 but that has been delayed because of Covid19. If you have a chance to visit, make sure to tell Didier Rebecca says bonjour.
The last light in Paris is best enjoyed towards the Seine. The rooftops glisten in the sunlight and the whole city glows for a short period. It is one of my favorite times of the day in Paris.
I filmed this video with Jamie Nyqvist back in November. I hope you enjoy this little stroll around the Marais.
Places in the video include: