A Guide to the Marais
A Guide to the Marais
The Marais has been one of my all-time favorite neighborhoods in Paris. When I first moved to Paris in 2013, I had an apartment in Montmartre. My Paris family lived in the heart of the Marais, and I always found every excuse to visit them. I dreamt of having a place in the Marais to be in the center of the hustle and bustle of the city. Eventually, my dream came true: having two apartments in the Marais. One overlooked Marché des Enfants Rouges, and the other on a side street with beautiful natural light, making it the perfect place to work and live in Paris. I hope you enjoy this guide to the Marais from my frequent trips to Paris.
If you have any favorite spots I didn’t cover in this list, comment below and share them with the EDP community.
Where the Marais is Located: A Guide to the Marais
The Marais is spread between the 3rd and 4th arrondissements in Paris on the Right bank of the Seine. It extends from the Place de la Bastille (my favorite market) to the Place de Republique to the north and the Seine to the south.
In the 3rd arrondissement of Paris, you will find the “new Marais,” also referred to as the Haute Marais. It has coffee shops, hip boutiques, and a more trendy vibe. The 4th arrondissement is located closer to the Seine and is filled with old cobblestone streets and wood-beamed buildings. You will also find the Musée Carnavalet, which covers the history of Paris, and the Musée Picasso.
The Marais is also referred to as the Jewish Quarter. As you walk through the neighborhood, you will see the history of the city and the Jewish people above the doors. There are plaques to identify the Jews who were deported during WWII and honor their legacy. You will also find the Shoah Museum in Paris, a free-entry Holocaust museum with a memorial including photographs and documents. It is open Sunday through Friday.
Along with being known as the Jewish Quarter in Paris, the Marais is home to many gay bars and is LGBTQ-friendly. You will find rainbow flags and a rainbow street crossing in the neighborhood.
The Eiffel Tower is far from the Marais but manageable on a day with nice weather. Walk along the Seine and cross over the Seine River to the Left Bank in the Latin Quarter to explore the area and make the most of your day. If you don’t feel like walking, take the Metro or bus.
Where to Stay in the Marais
Le Pavillion de la Reine is one of my favorite boutique hotels in Place des Vosges. The hotel continues to renovate a few rooms each year. Le Pavillon de la Reine also recently renovated the hotel’s Michelin-star restaurant, Anne. Stop here for lunch or dinner in the courtyard and admire the ivy covering the exterior of the building. The hotel exterior is filled with jasmine in the summer, and the smell is heavenly.
Le Grand Mazarin is another favorite boutique hotel in the Marais. The property has recently opened in the past few years, and it is an excellent choice based on its location alone. You will walk across the street to BHV, one of the most famous Paris department stores, and Hôtel de Ville, just around the corner.
Caron de Beaumarchais is a small 3-star boutique hotel in the Marais on Vieille du Temple, filled with character and historical and unique decor. This hotel quickly sells out due to its price point and prime central location in the Marais. Opt for a balcony overlooking the street when booking. It will be worth it! I also love the breakfast here and prefer to have it in my room on the balcony rather than the breakfast room in the basement.
The Best Parks in the Marais
Place des Vosges is a popular park in the Marais where you can enjoy the sunshine and a good book.
Don’t overlook the nearby Jardin Anne-Frank. It is a bit tucked away off of Rue Rambuteau. The rose gardens are beautiful in the summer, and there are trees with cherry blossoms bursting with pink in early spring.
Museums to Visit in the Marais
The National Archives Museum is at 60 Rue des Francs Bourgeois and offers free admission. It tells the story of the state archives with maps and documents. It is a great rainy-day activity, and they always have a seasonal exhibition. When I visited, it covered textiles, and the rooms were stunning. It is closed on Tuesday.
Picasso Museum is filled with 400 works of art by Picasso across 22 rooms in this Marais museum.
Musée Carnavalet covers the history of Paris and is free to the public. They also offer special exhibitions such as the history of the Seine. Fabula is the seasonal restaurant sitting outside the museum that is open may through September.
Centre Pompidou is planned to go under rennovations starting this fall. If you are headed to Paris this spring or summer of 2025, don’t miss a chance to visit. The view from the top looking down at the Parisian rooftops is always a favorite of mine.
A Guide to the Marais
Maison Victor Hugo can be found in Place des Vosges. Explore the apartment where Victor Hugo lived and learn more about the writer of the famous Hunchback of Notre-Dame.
Where to Eat in the Marais
Parcelles is located on Rue Chapon is open for lunch and dinner. Reservations are recommended. The menu changes daily but if you see the gnocchi sage butter dish on the menu, I highly recommend ordering it. Tables are close together so don’t be surprised if you strike up a conversation with your neighbors while dining.
Bistro des Tournelles is a gem on Rue des Tournelles in the Marais. I have been a few times in the past few years. The diners can be a mixed bag of tourists and locals in the neighborhood. As a solo diner, I have sat at the small bar just at the entrance with prime people watching of the entire room. The staff is always friendly and the food is delicious. I did overhear one waitress chat with a patron on why it was so busy. It has been written up in many news publications. The Americans eat early and the French eat late. Since there are two seatings, you can decide which you prefer. I have never seen them offer tables to walk ins. Reservations are highly recommended.
Café Camille offers a chalkboard menu with a bistro menu starting with breakfast all the way until after dinner. I love the people watching from the exterior of the café and the inside is classic Parisian.
La Fronde is a café on Rue des Archives that offers salads, cheese plates, and hot food from its chalkboard and classic written menu. I love stopping here in the area for a cheese plate or a salad with a glass of wine. Just down the street is the Sézane Marais location, making a great stopping point between shopping.
Where to Eat in the Marais
Chez Janou is a classic that everyone has on their list. I love popping by here for a glass of Rosé at the bar when I am solo on a warm day in late spring.
Marché Enfants Rouges is the oldest covered market in Paris. Here, you can buy fruits, vegetables, meats, and flowers. It is also the perfect spot to pick up various delicious lunch options, including made-to-order sandwiches and Moroccan food.
Walk down Rue des Rosiers, just off Rue Vieille du Temple, for a few great places for falafel. These restaurants are closed on Saturdays, so remember this as you plan your itinerary. L’As du Fallafel is always famous, and you will find lines for it. Miznon is a personal favorite that offers falafel and other pita sandwiches.
A Guide to the Marais: Pastry Shops in the Marais to Visit
Bontemps la Patisserie is located on Rue de Bretagne and offers delicious sablé cookies and cakes. I always like to pop here if I am going to a friend’s house for dinner. Their desserts are show-stoppers, beautiful and flavorful. Bontemps also offers a hidden courtyard where you can enjoy tea and cookies in the afternoon.
Dune Blanches offers delicious bite-sized chou made from pastry dough and filled with cream. Just a few flavors are available every day, and when they are sold out, they are finished. Go for a classic or a seasonal flavor.
JoJo and Co. has an incredible pastry assortment. Don’t miss the flan. There is always a classic flavor and a seasonal option. Tell Johanna I sent you!
Maison Aleph is a Syrian bakery known for its bird’s nest pastry. Delicious and bite-sized, you won’t want to miss a stop here. I love that the pastry chef and found is female.
Where to Drink in the Marais
Le Mary Celeste is a cocktail bar offering small bites for lunch and dinner. You can reserve a table here in advance. Try their cocktails or wine selection with your meal.
La Belle Hortense is owned by the same people as Au Petit Fer à Cheval. It has a wine bar and bookshop, making it a great place to get lost on a rainy evening in Paris. The bar is open from 5:30 to 1/2 a.m., depending on the day. It is closed on Monday and Tuesday.
Candalaria is a Mexican taqueria that serves tacos and cocktails. Push the door at the end of the taco bar to enter the candlelit speakeasy.
Au Petit Fer à Cheval is one of my favorite little spots in the Marais. I have been coming here for years and love sitting at the bar to drink a coffee and people-watch or grab a glass of wine with a friend at one of the small tables outside on the terrace. It is worth stopping for a glass of wine and resting your feed as you tour the Marais during your Paris visit.
Coffee Spots: A Guide to the Marais
Yellow Tucan can be found close to Bistro des Tournelles. They offer coffee but what I really love is their tumeric, ginger matcha. I dream of it!
White is a no frills coffee spot offering sweet treats and coffee cold or hot. Seating is outside only and the space is just large enough to walk up and order.
Boot Café has been a Marais staple for years. Try an iced coffee or enjoy a coffee in their warm and intimate space inside or out.
Noir has multiple locations around Paris. It is dependable and delicious. Try their brookie if it is available for something sweet.
Where to Shop in the Marais
Melodies Graphiques is a beautiful stationary store offering gift items and souvenirs to bring home from Paris.
Rue des Francs Bourgeois is a main shopping street in the Marais. I typically stop here at the corner of Vieille du Temple. My husband loves Bilabaris, so we typically stop here when we are in the Marais. You can also find Sandro, Caudalie, Maje, Diptyque, and many more fabulous French brands.
Officine Universelle Buly 1803 has a few locations, including a newly opened boutique on Viellie du Temple. The space is compact, and there can be a line outside due to capacity. Pick up a souvenir for you or a loved one. Have the brand engrave your initials on something special to remember your trip to Paris, such as a hairbrush, lip salve, or favorite rose perfume.
Merci can be found on Boulevard Beaumarchais, and the red car in the courtyard tells you you’re in the right spot. Discover their home goods section for some great pieces to bring home. I have seen a celebrity or two here on my visits. Don’t miss the bookshop and extended coffee shop, Noir, next door.
Fleux has multiple mini stores all next to each other. I find it super cute with so many fun items that can entertain you for hours especially on a rainy day.
Edwart Chocolatier—Marais is for the sweet tooth. I always love popping into Edwart Chocolatier for the praliné dark chocolates. A box of their chocolates is an excellent gift to bring home. Tell Edwin I say hello!
Where to Shop in Le Marais
Sézane has multiple locations. One of the newest locations is in the Marais. Originally, their men’s brand Octobre was combined with their location but they moved it across the street to expand. On the weekends, the line is down the street.
P.S. For how to spend a day in the Marais, you can check out this post!
Save this Google Map for your next trip to Paris.
There are so many additional spots that didn’t make the long post! Each is divided into where to eat, shop, stay, and explore.
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Bonjour, I’m Rebecca!
I’m a photographer, blogger, croissant-lover, and world traveler. I hope that Everyday Parisian inspires you by bringing a bit of France into your daily life and helps you plan the best trip to Paris with personalized recommendations for places to stay, explore, and eat.
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What a beautiful post, Rebecca! As requested, here are two faves of mine on the Rue Vieille du Temple: EDWART Chocolatier–the owner, Edwin, will give you a memorable, personalized tasting of his artisanal chocolates. I did mine all in French and will never forget it. He is genuinely friendly and personable. And just next to Edwart is Officine Universelle Buly–the famous apothecary, where you can buy a beautiful hair comb, toiletries, fragrances and their signature all-natural lip balms—all of which can be personalized with your name or initials while you wait. Both of the above are very “Rebecca Plotnick” and make very special gifts/souvenirs to take home.
Christine,
Thank you for reminding me of two great spots!! I love Edwin, he is so friendly and his chocolates are delicious. Buly is a fun stop and I am overdue for a personalized piece to add to my Paris souvenirs. Merci xo
Love your newsletter – stories, tips, photography. I share your love of Paris, but can’t get there as frequently as I would love to. Thank you for all your advice. I pre-ordered your book and can’t wait to read it. Merci pour tout!
Thank you so much, Bonnie! I can’t wait for you to enjoy the book too. It will be filled with stories and photos that I hope will tug at your heart string and make you want to book a trip to Paris. xo
The Museum of Art and Jewish History is a fascinating museum in the Marais.
The Pompidou Center is not open—-it already closed a few weeks ago. Will be closed for 5 yesrs.
Hi Evelyn,
I would love to know where you read it is now closed. My research has led me to believe they will be closing in September for the planned renovations. xo