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How to Survive a Heat Wave in Paris (For Someone Who Just Did)

café bonaparte summer heat wave

I just returned from Paris this June, a quick trip for meetings. I had big plans for an evening on a terrace, a glass of rosé, and maybe a picnic along the Seine if time allowed. When I checked the weather forecast, I could not fathom the 95 to 100 degree temperatures that popped up on my screen.

Nothing can fully prepare you for a heat wave in Paris. But vacations are scheduled, flights are booked, and if you are planning to visit Paris this summer, this post is for you.

Here is everything I learned from traveling to Paris during a heat wave. I hope it helps you prepare for the current weather and whatever comes next, because we know there will always be another heat wave. Stay safe and stay hydrated.

What to Actually Expect

Paris heat is different from Chicago heat. There’s very little air conditioning in restaurants and shops around the city. It is a luxury. When it is 100 degrees in Chicago, I can stay cool inside without hesitation.

Parisians were still out and about in the heat wave, dressed in linen, with lots of water and portable paper fans and electric ones. Truly, anything to beat the heat.

Afternoons between 1 pm and 5 pm can be genuinely brutal, especially if you’re walking and in direct sunlight. Try to avoid this peak time whenever possible. The sunset is after 10 pm, so you have plenty of time to get a full day in Paris.

Where to Cool Down

Parisians escaping the sun during the June heat wave

Parisians are jumping into the Canal St Martin to cool off during the extended heat wave.

As for museums, I can’t speak for all of them. I was in the Hôtel de la Marine this trip around, and it was empty and cool. There is an outdoor area to take a photo of the Eiffel Tower, but you can pop back inside quickly.

Bon Marché: This note is from my husband, who chimed in to say they have air conditioning. I also found myself here after a meeting and grabbed juice and water at Judy’s, a kiosk at La Grande Épicerie on Rue des Sèvres in the 7th.

Parks with shade- retreat under a tree or on a bench with a large bottle of water if you are outside and need to beat the heat. I saw this in Palais Royal, as all the chairs were moved from the center around the fountain to under the trees, which was much cooler.

What to Wear in A Paris Heat Wave

Parisians in the summer heat wave

I will have a whole packing post coming soon. Light fabrics, including linen and cotton, will be your best friends. For color, whites, cream, and soft neutrals. I did pack a few black pieces, including a black bag, and regret it (a lighter color would have been better). The cheesecloth blouses like this one are breathable and cute. If I could do it all over again, I would go as light colors as possible. Sunglasses, a sun hat, and a fan are heat wave accessories you will want to have on hand.

cuyana sun hat Paris

A linen skirt, a shirt, and a linen dress are all fabulous options. This white skirt was a favorite that I wore in Paris. I also highly recommend bringing a change of clothes; a shower mid-day is not out of the question. This includes extra pairs of underwear. You are welcome! You can throw a travel deodorant in your bag if you need it. These wipes came in handy to refresh my face on the go.

paris heat wave Parisians wearing scarves and under umbrellas at Parisian terraces

Many Parisians were wearing headscarves. I love the trend, but didn’t try it out. Sunscreen is a non-negotiable. If you pack in a carry-on, the best thing to do is hit a French pharmacy when you land. They have the best sunscreens, and you can get larger sizes for reapplication. I love the SPF sticks by Avène, Caudalie, and Roses; they make it easy to touch up your face throughout the day. You can find these at any pharmacy. Do not feel the pressure to visit City Pharma for sunscreen. It just isn’t necessary.

How to Sleep

Not every hotel or Airbnb is equipped with air conditioning. I highly recommend checking in advance before arriving in Paris and making any necessary changes. The heat was no joke, and your health and safety are the top priority.

What actually helps is opening the windows in the early morning and evening to get a cross-breeze.

I stayed at Hôtel Madison, directly across from the Saint-Germain-des-Prés church. There was air conditioning, but it was never as intense as in the US and was very mild. Better than nothing.

Sleep in light, breathable fabrics. I am so happy I packed this little camisole and shorts.

How to Structure Your Day in a Paris Heat Wave

summer sunset left bank Paris heat wave how to stay cool

Early morning is magic. Paris sunrise is at 5:30 am, and 7 am in summer is cool, quiet, and incredible light. I did my photo shoot with Katie Donnelly at the Eiffel Tower at 7 am. The light was golden and beautiful, and there was a little chill in the air. Between 6:30 am and 9:30, I did my walking along the Seine and took photos. I will say there are very few places open for coffee that early, which was the only challenge. The heat came on quickly and by 10 am was intense. Keep that in mind as you plan your day.

Midday is for resting and getting a break from the heat and sun. Discover a museum, have a long lunch somewhere inside with air conditioning. This also proved to be a big challenge. Some restaurants didn’t have air conditioning, and inside it was warm. Hydrate as much as possible throughout the day. Drink more water than you ever think you will need.

This trip, I visited Hôtel de la Marine, which had been on my list for years. The museum was practically empty. I purchased my tickets online in advance, but there wasn’t a line when I arrived for security or tickets. A good spot to get a break in during the middle of the day.

The days are extremely long; plan to have some downtime at your hotel with the shades drawn. A nap is not out of the question; keep in mind the heat takes a lot out of you.

Evening is when Paris comes alive in summer anyway. This time is what really makes summer in Paris special. Dinner at 8 or 9. Walk along the Seine and enjoy a golden sunset after 10 pm.

Getting Around Paris in the Heat

Surrender to a taxi or Uber when you need to beat the heat or take a break. Don’t feel pressure to be a hero. I heard reports from friends that the metro was hot and packed. It is not where I would want to be stuck. I did a lot of my walking in the early morning, before 10 and after 8, and still got in a decent number of steps. These shoes were one of my trip’s heroes.

linen shirt from Alex Mill what to wear in a heat wave in Paris

Every Uber or taxi I was in had the air conditioning blasting, providing a great break from the heat wave, even on short rides across town. I was able to arrive at my meetings on time and not looking like I melted. Drink water during these breaks and when getting from place to place.

heat wave in Paris what to wear

If you are headed to Paris this summer, stay safe, cool, and most of all, be prepared.

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